shortie glove
A wrist-length glove with a side or center palm opening that can be snapped or buttoned.
stock tie
A long, wide piece of fabric wrapped around the neck several times and looped over itself in front.
string tie
A narrow necktie tied in a bow or simply knotted.
tie dyeing
A form of resist dyeing. Items to be dyed are tied or knotted so that the folds of the fabric form barriers to the dye to create patterns or designs on the fabric. See dyeing and resist dyeing.
tie-back
A full length (either to the windowsill or to the floor) curtain or drapery looped back at the side of the window with a band of
trimming or self-fabric. The curtain or drapery is closed at the top of the window, and almost entirely open at the point of the tie-back. The look is popular in informal houses in such fabrics as organdy and
batiste and in formal houses in luxurious fabrics.
tier
One of a series of bands, ruffles, or flounces arranged one above the other.
barathea
Barathea is mixed fabric which contains
silk,
rayon,
cotton or
wool and is closely woven. It has a typical pebbly surface. Barathea is used for dresses, neckties, trimmings, and suits.
boucle yarn
Boucle
yarn is a rough, quite thick and slubby
linen yarn that is characterized by tight loops projecting from the body of the
yarn with regular intervals. It is a novelty
yarn often mixed with
yarns of other fibers for textural interest. Boucle
yarn is very popular because there are many varieties and weights.
chalfis
One of the softest fabrics made, it is named for the AngloIndian term shalee, meaning soft. lt is a fine, light-weight, plain-weave fabric, usually made of
wool,
cotton, or
man-made fibers. Challis was traditionally printed with vivid floral patterns on dark grounds or with paisley designs, but now is produced in darker tones of allover prints and solid colors, in the finest quality fabrics. lt is normally used for neckties, dresses, blouses, scarves, bed jackets, and infants’ sacques.
crinkle crepe
A fabric with an taneven surface, created by use of caustic soda that causes it to shrink unevenly. Plisse is an example of a crinkle
crepe fabric. Crinkle
crepe and plisse usually have a larger pattern to surface irregularities than
crepe.
faille
A soft, slightly glossy
silk,
rayon,
acetate,
cotton,
wool, or a
mixture of these, in a
rib weave, that has a light, flat, narrow crosswise
rib or
cord. It is made by using heavier yarns in the filling than in the
warp, and has more
ribs to the inch than benga
line. Ottoman is similar to faille but has a wider
rib. Faille is considered a dressy fabric, and is used for evening clathes, tailored dresses, coats, suits, ties, handbags, shoes, and draperies. See ottoman.
foulard
A lightweight, soft, plain- or
twill-weave fabric made of
silk, mercerized
cotton,
rayon,
acetate, or thin worsted
wool. Foulard has a high
luster on the face and dull on the reverse side. It is often printed, and the patterns range from simple polka dots to small, allover elaborate designs on light or dark grounds. It is also made in plain and solid colors. Foulard has a characteristic hand that can be described as light, firm, and supple. It is used for spring and summer dresses, scarves, robes, and neckties, and frequently sold as
surah.
grosgrain
A fairly heavy, closely woven, firm, corded or ribbed fabric, made in
silk or
rayon warp with
cotton cords. The cords are round and firm, heavier than in poplin, rounder than in
faille. Gros
grain is often made in narrow widths for use as
trimming. The most common use of gros
grain is for ribbons in which the ribs are usually narrow, but it can be made with larger ribs for academic gowns. It is really a benga
line in narrow goods and is used for ribbons, neckties, and
lapel facings.
huck
A type of toweling fabric with a honeycombed surface made by using heavy filling yarns in a
dobby weave. It has excellent absorbent qualities. It is woven with a pattern, most often with a
dobby attachment on the
loom and may have Jacquard borders. Huck is traditionally made of
cotton,
linen, or
rayon, or a
mixture of these, although today, other fibers may be used. In a
mixture it is called a union fabric. Face or hand towels are made in white or colors and are used for drying dishes, glasses, and kitchen utensils. Huck is also called huckaback. Embroidery enthusiasts often use huck as a ground for their work. See
dobby.
kilim
Near Eastern oriental fabric woven with a
shuttle or needle, with no pile. Kilims are used by the Orientals as portieres, couch covers, and table covers.
linen
A vegetable
fiber obtained from the inside of the woody stalk of the
flax plant. It is one of the oldest fabrics known. It is strong, and today’s man-made
fibers are often blended with it to improve its wrinkle resistance and give the fabric other desirable qualities. Linen is woven in various weights for different purposes and is occasionally used in knit blends. The following entries are common linen names.
lingerie
Another term for women’s underwear and nightwear, including panties, slips, petticoats, camisoles, pajamas, and nightgowns. Lingerie implies delicate fabric, often
lace-trimmed. The term lingerie fabrics is occasionally used for very delicate fabrics. Formerly, the finest lingerie was made of
muslin,
lawn, or
silk.
Macclesfield silk
Hand-woven
silk or
rayon fabric with small overall Jacquard patterns. Macclesfield, England, is the town of origin. Today, the name applies to small,
yarn dyed,
dobby designs used in men’s neckties. See
Spitalfields.
melamine resins
Finishes used to give wrinkle resistance and other desirable qualities (including a degree of shrinkage resistance) to fabrics, primarily those made from natural fibers. Melamine resins are chlorine retentive which means that if fabrics with these finishes are
bleached with a chlorine
bleach, they will keep both the color and the odor of the chlorine.
milanese
A kind of
warp knitting with several sets of yarns. Characteristie is its diagonal argyle-type pattern.
mildew resistant
Among the many properties that can be given to fabrics in the
finishing is resistance to traditional enemies. Waterproofed fabrics and fabrics treated with
metallic com pounds and certain organic compounds will resist mildew. Fabrics such as
canvas, that are exposed to the damp conditions that encourage the growth of mildew fungus, can be treated with finishes to resist this fungus, making them mildew resistant. See
finishing.
modified cellulose fibers
Cotton
fibers treated with caustic soda to give strength, increased
luster, and improved affinity for dye. Modification of a
fiber changes its physical and chemical properties within the limits of a generic family.
mogadore
A corded
silk or
rayon fabric with wide ridges and often with wide stripes used for ties.
moth repellency
An example of the desirable quaIities that can be given to fabrics in the
finishing process. Some fabrics are treated with colorless chemicals, similar to dyestuffs, added to the dye bath. Another method atomizes the fabric with mothproofing chemicals. Fabrics that attract moths, such as woolens, can be treated for repellency. The treatment also repels other insects, such as carpet beetles. Wool rugs are almost always treated for moth repellency today.
rep or repp
Heavy filling-wise
corded fabric, heavier than poplin. It may be
silk,
rayon,
man-made fibers,
cotton,
wool, or a
mixture. The fabric may be solid or striped. It is used for ties, robes, draperies, and upholstery, and in lighter weights for blouses and trimmings.
sailcloth
Originally, a firmly woven
cotton canvas used for making sails. Today, sailcloth is a very heavy, strong, plain-weave fabric made of
cotton,
linen,
jute, nylon, or palyester. It comes in many qualities and weights. In common usage, the terms
duck, sailcloth, and
canvas often are used interchangeably. Sailcloth can be used for
sportswear, slipcovers and upholstery, and curtains and draperies. See
canvas and
duck.
sash
Soft fabric or a
ribbon tied at the waist as a heil.
satin
One of the basic weaves. A shiny, smooth
silk,
acetate,
rayon, or other man-made
fiber combination woven in
satin weave made with a
cotton filling. It has a smooth, lustrous surface because the
warp floats. It is used for linings of coats, jackets, facings, and ties. It is also used for draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, and sheets. Satin weave has proved so popular that various types of satin-weave fabrics have developed. Following i.s a listing of many of the types of satin fabrics. See weaving and
sateen.
senna knot
Type of knot used to make pile in Persian hand-tied rugs.
surah
A
silk recognized by its sheen and its fine
twill weave. Surah is popular for dresses and neckties and is also imitated in
man-made fibers.
Spitalfields
An English town and the home of Huguenot weavers, it is now a
lace-making center. In this town, the hand-woven Jacquard
silk Spitalfields tie originated.
sportswear
Clothing worn for active or spectator sports or recreational activities.
straw
A fairly stiff
material made from the stems, leaves, bark, or stalks of various plants. It is usually braided or woven to form a fabric. Straw is used in large quantities for hats when they are in style. Most straw today is used for baskets and handbags of various kinds. Chip straw is used almost exclusively for baskets. It is a by-product of the lumber industry and is made from chips and other pieces of wood, including shavings. Leghorn straw is a braided straw popular for hats and is made from wheat grown in Italy. Panarna, another braided hat straw, is made from the screw pine. Other types of straw include Bangkok,
linen (straw made to resembie woverr
linen), Milan,
ramie, sisal (used for rugs and ropes), toyo, and Tuscan.
stretch yarn
A
textured yarn that has good stretch and
recovery. It can also refer to
yarns made of
fibers that have elastic properties or to those
yarns whose elastic properties are obtained by alterations of the basic
fiber.
string tie
A narrow necktie tied in a bow or simply knotted.
tie dyeing
A form of resist dyeing. Items to be dyed are tied or knotted so that the folds of the fabric form barriers to the dye to create patterns or designs on the fabric. See dyeing and resist dyeing.
tie-back
A full length (either to the windowsill or to the floor) curtain or drapery looped back at the side of the window with a band of
trimming or self-fabric. The curtain or drapery is closed at the top of the window, and almost entirely open at the point of the tie-back. The look is popular in informal houses in such fabrics as organdy and
batiste and in formal houses in luxurious fabrics.
Windsor knot
A fairly loose, bulky necktie knot originated by the Duke of Windsor.
