bast fiber
Bast
fiber is the name for a Fiber between the pithy center of the stem and the skin. Examples are
flax,
jute,
hemp, and
ramie.
bicomponent fiber
A bicomponent
fiber consists of two
filaments of the same generic class but different composition which have been extruded simultaneously. This results in a continuous-
filament man-made
fiber composed of two related components, each having a different degree of shrinkage.
biconstituent fiber
Biconstituent
fiber is made by mixing two different man-made generic
fiber materials together in their fluid stage. Afterwards they are forced through a
spinneret.
cellulosic fibers
Cellulosic fibers are fibers consisting of
cellulose.
fiber
The basic unit used in the fabrication of textile
yarns and fabrics. Fibers are much longer than they are wide. The term at one time was limited to materials that could be spun into
yarn, but now is used to include filaments that do not require
spinning, such as
silk and
man-made fibers.
glass fiber
Very fine flexible
fiber made from glass. It. is used extensively for curtains and draperies. Glass
fiber fabrics are very strong and wash well, but care should be taken to avoid getting small sp
linters of the glass yarns in the hands. Glass
fiber is stiff and has poor resistance to wear and
abrasion. It is also
fireproof. See
fireproof.
man-made fibers
An overall term referring to all fibers not found naturally. This includes
rayon and
acetate made from
cellulose, a natural product. The term synthetic fibers also ap plies only to man-made fibers made entirely in the laboratory from such things as petroleum (polyester).
mineral fibers
Textile raw
material obtained from minerals in the earth, such as
asbestos, silver, gold, copper, and the like.
modified acetate fibers
Fibers that are stretched and then treated with alkali.
modified cellulose fibers
Cotton
fibers treated with caustic soda to give strength, increased
luster, and improved affinity for dye. Modification of a
fiber changes its physical and chemical properties within the limits of a generic family.
modified fibers
Fibers that are treated to eliminate charactetistics considered undesirable and to add characteristics considered desirable. Some treatments improve a
fiber’s ability to take dye, whereas others give a
fiber stretch it does not naturally have.
modified rayon fibers
Chemical treatment while
fibers are in the plastic state to give them
high tenacity (high strength). Changes in the molecular structure of the
fiber have been made.
redaimed textile fibers
Fibers made into fabric (whether sold comrnercially or not) and then converted back into
fiber. Most reclaimed textile
fibers are
wool and other natural
fibers because it is extremely difficult to reclaim man-made
fibers. See reprocessed
fibers and reused
fibers.
recycled fiber
See reclaimed textile
fibers, reprocessed
fiber, and reused
fiber.
reprocessed fibers
Fibers obtained from scraps and clips of woven and felted fabrics made of previously urmsed woot that have been shredded back into
fiber form and then remade into new yarns. Reprocessed
fibers are usually
wool fibers and must be relabeled as reprocessed
wool ac
cording to Federal Trade Commission standards. Reprocessed
fibers are less desirable than new or virgin
fibers. See virgin Fiber.
specialty fibers
Hair fibers from various breeds of goats and camels. Also included are cow- and
horsehair, fur from rabbits, and feathers of the
duck, goose, and ostrich.
spun fiber yarn
(1) A
yarn twisted by
spinning. (2) Yarn made from
staple lengths of man-made
fibers instead of the long fiIaments in which man-made
fibers are formed. To accomplish this, long
filament fibers are chopped into
staple lengths and spun to imitate natural
fiber yarns. See
filament arrd
staple.
stretch fibers
Rubber or man-made plastik
fibers (such as
spandex and anidex) that are naturally elastic or man-rnade
fibers, highly twisted, heat-set, and untwisted to leave a strong crimp. Polyester has a certain degree ol natural streich and more can iue given to the
yarn in the processing or in the
finishing of the fabric. Occasionally, polyester woven fabrics are described as stretch fabrics. Usually, stretch implies a degree of visible give in a
fiber or fabric that stretches and then returns quickly to its original shape. Stretch fabrics are sometirnes described as elastic. Sec elastic, crimp, and
recovery. See also
spandex and anidex.
synthetic fiber
A man-made textile
fiber derived from natural bases or produced by chemical synthesis. These chemicals were never fibrous in form.
virgin fibers
Fibers never made into fabric before. The term is used primarily for
wool fibers to differentiate between these and reclaimed, repro cessed, and reused fibers. See
reprocessed fibers, reclaimed fibers, and reused fibers.
acetate
A organic and chemical
fiber. Acetate is a blend of
cellulose and acetic acid that has been hardened. Solution and spun-dyed acetates are colorfast against sunlight, perspiration, and air pollution. Acetate is often used for luxurious fabrics because its appearance is similar to
silk. It is mixed occasionally with other
fibers to give additional gloss and lower the cost.
acrylic
The generic name of
fibers made from acrylic granulate, which comes from coal, air, water, petroleum, and limestone. The quota of
acrylonitrile units has to be at least 85% for a
fiber to be called acrylic. Acrylic is light in weight for the warmth it gives and is very popular for blankets or as a substitute for
wool.
acrylonitrile
The chemical composition from which
acrylic fiber is made. It results from the reaction of ethylene oxide and hydrocyanic acid.
aloe lace
A bobbin or tatted
lace made from aloe plant (i.e. agave) fibers.
aramid
A chemical man-made
fiber. A class of aromatic polyamide
fiber that differs from nylon’s polyamide
fiber.
asbestos
A mineral
fiber that is non
metallic. Its greatest virtue is that it is nonflammable. It is used in combination with other
fibers for theater curtains and in industrial clothing where flameproofing is essential. Asbestos is often used to make ironing board covers and potholders..
azlon
This term describes manufactured fibers made from regenerated natural proteins, such as casein,
zein, soybean, and peanut. In a
mixture with other fibers it gives the fabric a soft feeling.
baize
Loosely woven fabric, normally made of
cotton or
wool, which nowadays also can contain other fibers. Originally used for school bags or as covers for the doors leading to servants’ quarters in England. Baize is used for industrial purposes as well.
bast fiber
Bast
fiber is the name for a Fiber between the pithy center of the stem and the skin. Examples are
flax,
jute,
hemp, and
ramie.
Bedford cloth
Bedford cloth is a strong woven fabric with lengthwise ribs. Normally used for upholstery and riding breeches and may be made of any
fiber.
Bedford cord
Bedford
cord is a durable cloth with lengthwise ribs made of
cotton,
wool,
silk,
rayon, or combination fibers. Mainly used for outer garments or Sportswear.
bicomponent fiber
A bicomponent
fiber consists of two
filaments of the same generic class but different composition which have been extruded simultaneously. This results in a continuous-
filament man-made
fiber composed of two related components, each having a different degree of shrinkage.
biconstituent fiber
Biconstituent
fiber is made by mixing two different man-made generic
fiber materials together in their fluid stage. Afterwards they are forced through a
spinneret.
billiard doth
Billiard cloth is the cloth used on billiard tables. It is always dyed green. This is traditionally a very fine twilled fabric consisting of quality
wool. Nowadays also other fibers are used for billiard cloth.
blended yarn
A strand of fibers produced from two or more constituent fibers that have been thoroughly mixed (blended) before
spinning.
bonding
A process of joining two or more layers of cloth with a layer of adhesive, or pressing fibers into thin webs or mats held together by adhesive, plastic, or self-bonding that melts when heat is applied.Nonwoven fabrics are made in this way. The term occasionally is used as a synonym for
laminating, but this is technically incorrect
boucle yarn
Boucle
yarn is a rough, quite thick and slubby
linen yarn that is characterized by tight loops projecting from the body of the
yarn with regular intervals. It is a novelty
yarn often mixed with
yarns of other fibers for textural interest. Boucle
yarn is very popular because there are many varieties and weights.
bright yarns
Bright yarns are high
luster yarns made of
rayon or
acetate fibers.
broadcloth
Although the term broadcloth originally meant any fabric made on a
loom of a certain width, it now means a fine, tightly woven fabric with a faint
rib. Originally, it was made of mercerized
cotton, but today the term is used to desc
ribe several dissimilar fabrics made with different
fibers, weaves, and finishes. (1) Originally, a
silk shirting fabric so named because it was woven in widths exceeding the usual twenty-nine inches. (2) A plainweave, tightly woven, high-count
cotton fabric, with fillingwise
rib finer than poplin. Best grades are made of combed pima or Egyptian
cotton, usually with high
thread counts (136x60 or 144x76). The fabrics are usually mercerized, sanforized, and given a soft lustrous finish, and are used for women’s blouses, tailored summer dresses, and men’s shirts. (3) A closely woven, medium-weight
wool cloth with a smooth nap, velvety feel, and lustrous appearance. Wool broadcloth can be made with a two-up-and-two-down
twill weave or
plain weave. In setting up a
loom to make the fabric, the
loom is
threaded wide to allow for a large amount of shrinkage during the filling process. The fabric takes its name from this wide
threading. High-quality
wool broadcloth is fine enough for garments that are closely molded to the figure or draped. Its high-
luster finish makes it an elegant cloth. Wool broadcloth is ten to sixteen ounces per yard and is now being made in
chiffon weights. (4) A fabric made from
silk or man-made
filament fiber yarns and woven in a
plain weave with a fine crosswise
rib obtained by using a heavier filling than
warp yarn.
brocatelle
Brocatelle is a fabric similar to
brocade but made of a Jacquard
loom. It is used as drapery and upholstery fabric and made in double-cloth construction with a
silk- or
rayon-fibered face.
bulking
A
yarn finishing process in which the
yarn is made thicker or “bulkier” by
heat setting crimp into the filaments or by looping individual fibers with an air jet. Bulking gives
yarn and fabrics a less shiny, fluffier appearance. Bulking is often used in making sweater
yarns.
burn-out printing
Burn-out printing describes a process in which a fabric consisting of two different
fibers is treated with chemicals partly take away one
fiber to create a structure on the surface of the fabric. For example, sculptured
velvet is produced with this method.
butcher’s linen
Strong, heavy,
plain weave fabric, originally of
linen (and originally worn by butchers), now made of any
fiber.
cambric
A closely woven,
plain weave, white fabric that is fini
shed with a slightly glossy surface. The fabric is traditionally made from
cotton or
linen, but can be made from any
fiber. It was formerly used in underwear and handkerchiefs, but today its major uses are to reinforce book bindings and to upholster the underside of chairs and sofas. Very low count, heavily sized glazed cambric is used for costuming.
camel’s hair
Camel’s hair comes from the soft lustrous underhair of the Bactrian, a two humped, pack-carrying species of camel. The fabric is fawn to brown in color. Because it is a luxury fabric and therefor very expensive, camel’s hair is nowadays very often blended with other fibers, sometimes sheep’s
wool, sometime manmade
acrylic fibers.
canvas
A heavy, strong, usually
plain weave fabric that historically was made of
flax,
hemp, or
cotton. Today, it is usually made of
cotton, but some fabrics made of
man-made fibers or blends are also called canvas. Canvas is, roughly speaking, heavier than
duck or
sailcloth although the three names are often used interchangeably. The unbleached fabric is used for coat fronts, lapels, and linings of men’s suits. Hair canvas for interlinings is made of goat’s hair and
wool. See
duck and
sailcloth.
cashmere
Cashmere is the fine and soft undercoat hair of the cashmere goat which exists in Iran, India, Tibet, Mongolia, China and Iraq. Cashmere is one of the luxury fibers and today is usually blended with normal sheep’s
wool or
man-made fibers to reduce the cost. Another reason for the wide
spread blending is the fact that it makes the fini
shed fabric more durable for original cashmere fabrics are quite sensible. It is mainly used for clothing.
cellulose
The naturally occurring polymer (giant molecule) that forms the solid framework of plants. Cellulose from wood pulp is the base for
rayon and
acetate, both of which are
man-made fibers. Cotton is more than ninety percent cellulose before it is cleaned (scoured). See
cotton,
rayon, and
acetate.
cellulosic fibers
Cellulosic fibers are fibers consisting of
cellulose.
chalfis
One of the softest fabrics made, it is named for the AngloIndian term shalee, meaning soft. lt is a fine, light-weight, plain-weave fabric, usually made of
wool,
cotton, or
man-made fibers. Challis was traditionally printed with vivid floral patterns on dark grounds or with paisley designs, but now is produced in darker tones of allover prints and solid colors, in the finest quality fabrics. lt is normally used for neckties, dresses, blouses, scarves, bed jackets, and infants’ sacques.
chenille
Chenille is a fabric consisting of
wool,
cotton,
silk or artifical fibers. It is woven from blurry
yarns or tufts. Usually it is a mix from chenille and normal textile
yarns. While chenille is the filling, the other
yarn is the
warp. Chenille is a pile
yarn originally made by weaving a pile fabric and subsequently cutting it into strips. Its main use is for draperies and bedspreads.
chiffon
Chiffon is an extraordinary lightweight and thin
crepe fabric. Originally, chiffon was made of
silk, but today also
wool,
rayon, nylon and other fibers are used for the production of chiffon. It is an open weave with slightly twisted yarns and can have both, a soft or stiff finish. Chiffon is often used for dresses and scarves.
China silk
China
silk is a lightweight and soft fabric. This plain-weave
silk fabric is used for
lingerie and soft suits. Nowadays, China
silk has been replaced almost completly with
lining fabrics of
man-made fibers.
Coating
A term used to describe a fabric suitable for outerwear, such as coats, as in coating fabric. Also, something applied to a fini
shed fiber or fabric, such as a
rubber coating to make a fabric impervious to water. Coating suggests a thicker layer of the substance than does the word finish. A
rubber-coated fabric is probably more resistant to water than one that has been treated with a water-resistant finish.
corduroy
A
ribbed, high-
luster, cut-pile fabric with extra filling
threads that form lengthwise
ribs or wales. The
rib has been sheared or woven to produce a smooth,
velvet-like nap. The
thread count varies from 46 x 116 to 70 x 250. Traditionally made of
cotton, corduroy can be made of many different fibers, such as
rayon and polyester blends. lt is used for dresses, coats, sports jackets, sports shirts, bathrobes, slacks, and draperies.
cortex
Cortical cells in the
wool fiber consisting of bundles of fibrils.
cotton
A white or yellowish white vegetable
fiber from a plant related to the hollyhock, and grown in the United States, Russia, China, India, and other countries. Cotton is the name of the
fiber and also the fabric made from the
fiber. Different types of cotton plants produce cotton of higher or lower quality, usually associated with
staple length and fineness of the
fiber. Certain names for these plants are occasionally seen in advertising-Sea Island, Egyptian, and Pima-to indicate quality of the
fiber.
cotton knits
Cotton knits are made by the same methods as other knits, although they often are of finer gauge than
wool and man-made
fiber knits. They are the traditional underwear fabric, but recently have become popular for shirts, dresses, and
sportswear. Many
cotton knits today include some man-made
fiber to reduce shrinkage and give the knit greater stability.
cotton linters
Cotton fibers that are too short for
yarn or fabric manufacturing.
crepe
A lightweight fabric of
silk,
rayon,
cotton,
wool, man-made, or blended fibers, and characterized by a crinkled surface. This surface is obtained through the use of crepe
yarns (
yarns that have such a high
twist that the
yarn kinks), and by chemical treatment with caustic soda, embossing, or weaving (usually with thicker
warp yarns and thinner filling
yarns). Although crepe is traditionally woven, crepe
yarns are now used to produce knit crepes.
crepe de Chine
Traditionally, a very
sheer, pebbly, washable
silk with the fabric degummed to produce crinkle. Today, it is a
sheer, flat
crepe in
silk or
man-made fibers. It is used for
lingerie, dresses, and blouses.
cross-dyeing
A method of coloring fabrics made from more than one kind of
fiber, for example, a
wool and
cotton blend. Each
fiber in a fabric designed for cross-dyeing takes a specific dye in a different color or in variations of a color. A fabric that is crossdyed is more than one color. Cross-dyeing is often used to create heather effects (soft, misty colorings), but strongly patterned fabrics can also be achieved, depending on the
fibers used in the fabric.
cultivated silk
Fibers from a silkworm that have had scientific care.
damask
A glossy, heavy, firm-
textured Jacquard weave fabric, similar to
brocade, but lighter, with flat and reversible patterns. It is made of
silk,
linen,
cotton,
rayon or a combination of fibers in double or single damask. It is used for tablecloths, napkins, home furnishings, draperies and upholsteries, and occasionally clothing, such as afternoon and evening dresses.
doupion
Silk that comes from the
fiber formed by two
silk worms who spun their cocoons together in an interlocking manner. The
yarn is uneven, irregular, and larger than regular filaments. It is used to make
shantung and doupioni. Also called douppioni, dupion, and dupioni.
drill
A heavy, strong, durable twilled fabric of
cotton or
man-made fibers, similar to
denim, that has a diagonal 2x1 weave running up to the left
selvage. When strength of fabric is essential, drill is suitable for slacks, uniforms, overalls, and work shirts. See twill
Egyptian cotton
A fine, long,
staple cotton generally grown in Egypt along the Nile Delta. Egyptian
cotton fibers average more than 1112 inches in length and produce a strong, lustrous
yarn. See
cotton.
faille crepe
A
silk,
rayon,
acetate, or other man-made
fiber dress fabric with a decided wavy (crepe)
cord fillingwise. It is used for negligees, blouses, daytime and evening dresses, handbags, and trims.
fake fur
A slang term for pile fabrics and garments that imitate animal pelts. The most popular fake furs are probably those made from mod
acrylic fiber. See mod
acrylic and pile.
felt
A nonwoven fabric or interlocked
fiber made from
wool, fur, and hair
fibers that
mesh together when heat, moisture, and mechanical action are applied. Processes of
spinning, weaving, or
knitting are not employed. The
fibers develop a tight bond and will not ravel. Some percentage of
wool is necessary in the manufacture of true felt to achieve the felted effect. It is used for coats, hats, and many industrial purposes.
fiber
The basic unit used in the fabrication of textile
yarns and fabrics. Fibers are much longer than they are wide. The term at one time was limited to materials that could be spun into
yarn, but now is used to include filaments that do not require
spinning, such as
silk and
man-made fibers.
filament
Extremely long continuous fibers that can be measured in meters or yards, or in the case of
man-made fibers, in kilometers or miles. Filaments do not require
spinning to form
yarn. Examples are
rayon, nylon,
acrylic, polyester, and other
man-made fibers. Silk is the only natural filament
fire resistant
Fire resistant refers to a fabric or
fiber that has been treatedto discourage the spreading of f
lames. See
lame-retardant-fabric/180/f
lame-retardant-fabric.html" title="f
lame retardant fabric" class="normal">f
lame retardant fabric.
fireproof
Fireproof means that a fabric literally will not burn. To be labeled fireproof, the Federal Trade Commission requires that a fabric must be 100’% fireproof. If the
fiber or fabric has been treated to prevent f
lames from spreading, it must be labeled as
fire resistant. See
fire resistant and
lame-retardant-fabric/180/f
lame-retardant-fabric.html" title="f
lame retardant fabric" class="normal">f
lame retardant fabric.
flame retardant fabric
A fabric that resists or retards the spreading of f
lames. A f
lame retardant fabric can be made by using fibers that are themselves f
lame retardant, or by using special finishes on fabrics. Selow is a list of some f
lame retardant fabrics. Many companies produce similar items but have not given them names referring specifically to their f
lame retardant nature.
flat crepe
A firm, medium-weight
silk crepe with a soft, almost imperceptible crinkle. It has
creped fillings alternating with two S and two Z twists. The surface is fairly flat. Flat
crepe may also be made of
man-made fibers. It is used for dresses, negligees, and blouses. See
crepe de
chine,
flax
Fibers of the flax plant that are spun into
linen yarns and woven into
linen cloth. The word
linen is derived from “linum,” part of the scientific name for the flax plant. See
linen.
frieze
A heavy pile fabric used primarily for upholstery, slipcovers, and draperies. Frieze is looped, and the loops are often sheared to varying heights to form the pattern. Originally made of
cotton (and still often referred to as
cotton frieze), the fabric is now usually made of mohair,
wool,
cotton, and blends of
cotton and
man-made fibers. Also called
frise.
gas fading
The loss of colar some fabrics suffer because of nitrogen in the atmosphere rather than exposure to sunlight. Certain dyes (blues and greens, for example) are often more susceptible to gas fading than others, as are certain fibers (acetate). Special dyes can be used on these fabrics and colors to reduce or eliminate this problem. Also ealled atmospherie and pollution fading.
gauze
A thin,
sheer, open, loosely woven, plain-weave
cotton fabric with widely spaced yarns, used for diapers and surgical dressings. It can also be made of
wool,
silk,
rayon, or other
man-made fibers. Some weights are stiffened for curtains, trimmings of dresses, and other decorative or apparel purposes.
glass fiber
Very fine flexible
fiber made from glass. It. is used extensively for curtains and draperies. Glass
fiber fabrics are very strong and wash well, but care should be taken to avoid getting small sp
linters of the glass yarns in the hands. Glass
fiber is stiff and has poor resistance to wear and
abrasion. It is also
fireproof. See
fireproof.
glitter
The name, sometimes used in p
lace of
lame, for any fabric woven or knitted with all
metallic yarns or with a combination of
metallic and other
fiber yarns. Today, most glitter is made from one of the nontarnishable
metallic fibers, a great improvement over
lame of the past that tended to darken with age.
grading
Determining, by touch, the fineness of the diameters of individual fibers. Wool tops are graded in this fashion. Efforts are now being made to grade
wool in the grease by this method.
grass cloth
A plain-weave, loosely woven fabric made from such fibers as
hemp,
ramie, and even nettle. Today, true grass cloth is relatively rare, but the appearance of grass cloth is copied in wallpaper and fabrics of
man-made fibers.
hackling
A combing process that prepares the
flax fibers for
spinning by removing short lengths of
fiber, leaving only longer ones and laying them parallel. It may be done by hand or by ma
chine.
haircloth
A stiff, wiry fabric made from a combination of natural or
man-made fibers with animal hair filling, usually mohair (goat) or
horsehair. It is used in upholstery and as
interfacing and stiffening because of its strength.
heat setting
Although practices similar to heat setting are used in the
finishing of almost all fabrics, the term heat setting, strictly speaking, refers only to
thermoplastic man-made fibers. Because of the
thermoplastic nature of most
man-made fibers (they change their shape when heat is applied), certain features, such as pleats, can be made permanent by treating them under very high heat. Heat setting usually gives a smooth appearance to a fabric and sets its final measurements. Boarding, a process in the rnanufacture of stockings, is a type of heat setting.
hemp
A plant grown in the Philippines, Mexico, Central America, the West Indies, and India. Outer fibers are used for cordage, inner fibers for cables and
canvas.
high tenacity
High strength of modified
rayon and
acetate fibers as a result of chemical treatment while the fibers are in the plastic state.
homespun
Originally, fabrics made from yarns spun by hand. Today, homespun is used for fabrics that imitate this look. It is a very coarse, rough, plain-weave fabric, loosely woven with irregular, tightly twisted, and nubby, unevenly spun yarns. It is made from
linen,
wool,
cotton, or man-made
fiber, or blends in varied colors and is used for coats, suits,
sportswear, draperies, upholstery, and slipcovers.
Honan
A heavy
silk,
pongee-type, but a finer weave, originally the product of wild
silkworms of Honan, China. A fabric of the best grade of Chinese
silk, it is sometimes woven with blue edges. It is now made to resemble a heavy
pongee, with slub yarns in both
warp and filling. Honan is manufactured from
silk or from
man-made fibers. It is used for women’s dresses. See
silk,
pongee, and wild
silk.
horsehair
Fibers that are hair from the mane and tail, for the most part, of Canadian and Argentine horses. It is occasionally used for upholstery, but is more commonly used in interfacings for stiffening and strength. It is always combined with other fibers. True horsehair is rare and fabrics loosely called horsehair are often made from other hairs (such as goat) or
man-made fibers.
huck
A type of toweling fabric with a honeycombed surface made by using heavy filling yarns in a
dobby weave. It has excellent absorbent qualities. It is woven with a pattern, most often with a
dobby attachment on the
loom and may have Jacquard borders. Huck is traditionally made of
cotton,
linen, or
rayon, or a
mixture of these, although today, other fibers may be used. In a
mixture it is called a union fabric. Face or hand towels are made in white or colors and are used for drying dishes, glasses, and kitchen utensils. Huck is also called huckaback. Embroidery enthusiasts often use huck as a ground for their work. See
dobby.
interfacing
A stiffening fabric made of
horsehair (often goat hair,
wool,
man-made fibers, or combinations of these fibers). Interfacing is used to give additional body and strength to certain parts of garments. Areas that usually require interfacing include the front opening edges, collars, pocket flaps, and any piece where stretching or a loss of crispness would be a disadvantage.
interlining
A tayer of fabric placed between the outer fabric and the lining of the garment to add warmth. lt is most commonly found in coats and jackets. Interlinings are offen made of reprocessed
wool, but other materials such as polyester fiberfill may be used. See fiberfill, reprocessed
wool.
jute
One of the natural fibers still used extensively for fabrics. It is a
bast fiber that comes from jute plants grown primarily in India, 1’akistan, and Bangladesh. Jute is used for many purposes, including the manufacture of burlap, gunny sacks, bags, cordage (twine and rope), trimmings,
binding threads, and backings for rugs and carpets.
kapok
A fluffy
fiber that comes from the seed pods of the kapok tree found in the tropics. Kapok at one tirne was extremely popular for stuffing pillows and was also used in life preservers as it is naturally buoyant. Today, rnan-made
fibers have replaced kapok in many cases.
khaki
A term used for both an earth color or olive green color (yellow-brown color with a greenish tint) and for fabrics made in these colors, whether of
wool,
cotton,
linen, or
man-made fibers. Khaki is a classic uniform color and
material. It is also used for
sportswear and leisure clothes.
knit terry cloth
Terry cloth is a soft, absorbent fabric with loops on one or both sides. When this fabric is knit rather than woven, it is called knit terry. Knit terry is especially popular for bathrobes and beach wear because of its absorbency. Stretch knit terry (usually made stretchable by the addition of a synthetic elastic fiber) is popular for baby clothes because of its absorbency and comfort.
Cluny lace
A heavy lace, often made of thick cotton or
man-made fibers using the bobbin method. It is the traditional lace for doilies and place mats, but is also used in apparel. See
bobbin lace.
lame
Brocade,
damask, or
brocatelle fabrics in which flat metallic
yarns (or with a combination of
metallic and other
fiber yarns) are woven or knitted in
warp and filling for a luxurious effect. Today, most lame is made from one of the nontarnishable
metallic fibers, a great improvement over lame of the past that tended to darken with age. Lame is also a trademark terrn for a nontarnishable
metallic yarn. Glitter is sometimes used to describe this type of fabric and is used for evening dresses, blouses, and trimmings.
lansdowne
A lightweight
twill fabric made from natural or
man-made fibers and usually used for dresses.
lastrile
Generic name for a made-made elastic
fiber. There is not now, and has never been, any commercial production of this
fiber in the United States. See generic name.
line
Longest
flax fibers used for fine, even
linen yarns. Shortest
flax fibers are called
tow.
line yarn
Well-hackled, even
linen yarn made of long fibers.
linen
A vegetable
fiber obtained from the inside of the woody stalk of the
flax plant. It is one of the oldest fabrics known. It is strong, and today’s man-made
fibers are often blended with it to improve its wrinkle resistance and give the fabric other desirable qualities. Linen is woven in various weights for different purposes and is occasionally used in knit blends. The following entries are common linen names.
linens and domestics
The term used in stores to describe various household items which, at one time, were made of
linen. Today, most
linens and domestics are made of cot ton and
man-made fibers. The following entries are some of the items found in the
linens and domestics sections of stores. See blankets, towels, and bedding.
linters
Very short fibers that cover the
cotton seeds after the I long fibers have been removed by ginning. These short, fuzzy fibers, after removal from the
cotton seeds, are a source of
cellulose for
rayon and
acetate.
loden cloth
A thick, heavy, napped fleecy coating fabric woven of coarse grade
wool in Austria and the German Tyrol. It is similar to
duffel cloth if made of
wool or the occasional
man-made fibers. Since the
wool has some grease, it is naturally water-repellent. lt is usually a light forest green color, called loden, from which it (gets its name. Loden cloth moves in and out of fashion everywhere except in those parts of Germany and Austria where loden jackets, suits, and coats are considered basic dress. Loden cloth is sometimes gray in color. See
duffel cloth.
loft
The springiness or fluffiness of a
fiber.
loose cover
Another term for
slipcover. See
slipcover.[1]The gloss, sheen, or shine of a
fiber,
yarn, or fabric.
luster
The gloss, sheen, or shine of a
fiber,
yarn, or fabric.
Mackinaw
A thick, heavy, usually coarse fabric with a certain degree of natural water repellency. It was originally made of
wool, but other fibers such as acrylics are being used today. It was named for the blankets made by the Mackinaw Indians in Michigan. Mackinaw and similar fabrics are extremely popular for hunting jaekets and are usually plaid or checked. Mackinaw is also spelled Mackinac.
man-made fibers
An overall term referring to all fibers not found naturally. This includes
rayon and
acetate made from
cellulose, a natural product. The term synthetic fibers also ap plies only to man-made fibers made entirely in the laboratory from such things as petroleum (polyester).
marl
A technical term that refers to a
yarn made of different colored fibers. The word is used descriptively for fabrics to indicate randomly or uniformly colored slubs that appear on the surface giving added textural and design interest to the fabric.
Marseilles
A firmly woven
reversible fabric with raised geometric designs. Marseilles was originally made of
cotton, but is now usually made from
man-made fibers or blends.
material
Another word for fabric. See fabric.Fibers 1” to 11” long
matte
A dull surface on a fabric. Since one of the characteristics of fabrics made from
man-made fibers is a shiny surface, mattefini
shed fabrics have become popular and matte looks for man-made fabrics are achieved in
yarn processing or
finishing. See
finishing.
melamine resins
Finishes used to give wrinkle resistance and other desirable qualities (including a degree of shrinkage resistance) to fabrics, primarily those made from natural fibers. Melamine resins are chlorine retentive which means that if fabrics with these finishes are
bleached with a chlorine
bleach, they will keep both the color and the odor of the chlorine.
melton
Melton, usually called melton cloth, is a thick, heavily
felted or fulled
wool fabric in a
twill or
satin weave, with clipped surface nap,
felt-like in feeling, and lustrous, similar to a dull broad cloth. The close weave means that the fabric appears to be completely smooth. Melton was originally made of all
wool or
cotton and
wool, but today is made of other fibers. It is used extensively for coats and also for uniforms. See nap.
mercerization
A finish applied to
cotton yarn or fabric or to a blend of
cotton and other fibers to make it stronger, more absorbent, and to give the fabric additional
luster and increased ability to take dye. Mercerization can be done at the
yarn stage or the fabric stage. In common with several other textile processes, mercerization involves the use of caustic soda (sodium hydroxide or lye).
merino
Wool from the merino sheep that produces a short
staple fiber of extremely high quality. Merino sheep are raised in the United States, Australia, South Africa, and South America. Occasionally, the term merino is used as a synonym for Botany. See Botany.
mesh
A term for a large class of open fabrics made by almost all methods except felting. It can be made of any
fiber,
mixture, or blend. Mesh fabrics are used for bags, summer sport shirts, under wear, foundation garments, and hosiery. Mesh hosiery is knitted in such a pattern that, when one
yarn is snagged, the stocking will not develop a long, vertical run, but a hole instead. Mesh stockings and panty hose are believed to wear better than other constructions.
metal complex dyes
A class of dyestuffs that is ionic and premetallized (chemically coupled with nickel, copper, and cobalt salts to make the dye on the fiber).
metallic
A generic name for a manufactured
fiber that may be metal, metal coated with a synthetic, or a man-made
fiber core covered with metal. When the metal is coated with a man-made film, the metal does not tarnish.
micronaire fineness
The weight in micrograms of one inch of
fiber.
middy twill
The term middy
twill is used for many fabrics that are sturdy and have a
twill weave. Traditionally made of
cotton, middy
twill today is likely to include at least some
man-made fibers in its construction. When middy blouses are in fashion (a loasefitting, hip-length overblouse with a sailor collar) the most popular color for this
twill is navy blue. It is used also for school uniforms.
mixture
Although the word mixture is often ignored in favor of the word blend, it should be used to describe fabrics made from a combination of two or more fibers in which one of the fibers is used for the filling
thread. See blend and
biconstituent fiber.
modacrylic
A generic name for modified
acrylic fibers derived from thirty-five to eighty-five percent of
acrylonitrile units. It differs from
acrylic in its chemical structure. Mod
acrylic is used Most commonly to make fake furs and wigs. Mod
acrylic fibers are naturally f
lame-retardant (slow-burning). See
acrylic.
modified acetate fibers
Fibers that are stretched and then treated with alkali.
modified cellulose fibers
Cotton
fibers treated with caustic soda to give strength, increased
luster, and improved affinity for dye. Modification of a
fiber changes its physical and chemical properties within the limits of a generic family.
modified fibers
Fibers that are treated to eliminate charactetistics considered undesirable and to add characteristics considered desirable. Some treatments improve a
fiber’s ability to take dye, whereas others give a
fiber stretch it does not naturally have.
modified rayon fibers
Chemical treatment while
fibers are in the plastic state to give them
high tenacity (high strength). Changes in the molecular structure of the
fiber have been made.
modified yarns
See
modified fibers.
Mohair
The long, lustrous hair of the Angora goat. It is used, mixed with other fibers, to make mohair fabrics.
molding
The
thermoplastic nature of most of the
man-made fibers means that they change their shape under heat, thereby enabling the molding of items instead of
knitting them or cutting and sewing them to the desired shape. Although this method of manufacture has great promise, so far it has been successful primarily in brassieres (most
seamless brassieres have molded cups) and in upholstery applications.
molecular orientation
The degree to which
fiber molecules are parallel to each other and to the longitudinal axis of the
fiber.
monofilament
A single, fine
thread of continuous man-made
fiber (as in nylon hosiery). See multi
filament,
staple, and
tow.
mousseline
The name for a broad category of fabrics, usually fairly
sheer and lightweight and made in a variety of fibers, including man-mades,
silk,
cotton, and
wool. Mousse
line usually has a crisp hand. The word mousse
line is offen used today for a fabric resembling de soie. See mousse
line de soie and hand.
mousseline de soie
Literally, “
muslin of
silk.” The words de soie mean “of
silk” which may explain why the fabric, similar to this made from
man-made fibers is usually called mousse
line. Mousse
line de soie (
silk organdy) is a lightweight,
sheer, plainweave
silk fabric similar to
chiffon in its appearance and uses, but a little crisper.
multifilament yarn
A
yarn made of two or more filaments (long threads) of
man-made fibers (monofilaments) that are joined together, usually by twistingally by twisting.
multilobal
A
fiber with a modified cross section exhibiting several lobes.
rabbit hair
"Angora rabbit´s fur. The hair of rabbits often is mixed with ""normal"" fibers to give softness or an more illustrious
texture to the fini
shed fabric."
ramie
A strong, lustrous, natural
bast fiber from a nettle-Iike East Indian shrub, also produced in China, Egypt, and the United States. it is used for shirts, suitings, automobile seat covers, and in blends with
wool for carpets,
raw-stock dyeing
dyeing of
fibers before
spinning into
yarn. It is synonymous with
fiber-dyed. See
fiber-dyed.
rayon
The first successful man-rnade
fiber, rayon was originally called artificial
silk. It is made from ceilulose and is weak when wet. Rayon is soft and comfortable and dyes well, but is weakened by exposure to sunlight. ßecause of its low wet strength, rayon may shrink or stretch unless treated. fwo main processes are used in this country to produce rryon:
viscose process and cuprammonium process. Several different rnodificatiorrs of these types of rayon are being made and consist of the following. See
cellulose.
euprammonium rayon
Rayon niade by a process that allows very fine
filament fibers to be fornred. The fineness of its
filaments is its best known characteristic.
saponified rayon
A type of
rayon made from
cellulose acetate filaments, sirnilar to the kind used in making
acetate. These fibers are treated in a special way to prodtrce a rayorr that is very strong. Fortisan is an examplc of saponified
rayon.
redaimed textile fibers
Fibers made into fabric (whether sold comrnercially or not) and then converted back into
fiber. Most reclaimed textile
fibers are
wool and other natural
fibers because it is extremely difficult to reclaim man-made
fibers. See reprocessed
fibers and reused
fibers.
recycled fiber
See reclaimed textile
fibers, reprocessed
fiber, and reused
fiber.
rep or repp
Heavy filling-wise
corded fabric, heavier than poplin. It may be
silk,
rayon,
man-made fibers,
cotton,
wool, or a
mixture. The fabric may be solid or striped. It is used for ties, robes, draperies, and upholstery, and in lighter weights for blouses and trimmings.
reprocessed fibers
Fibers obtained from scraps and clips of woven and felted fabrics made of previously urmsed woot that have been shredded back into
fiber form and then remade into new yarns. Reprocessed
fibers are usually
wool fibers and must be relabeled as reprocessed
wool ac
cording to Federal Trade Commission standards. Reprocessed
fibers are less desirable than new or virgin
fibers. See virgin Fiber.
retting
The removal, usually by soaking, of the outer woody portion of the
flax plant to gain access to the fibers. This may be done by several methods: pool, dew, tank, and chemical.
reused wool
Old
wool that has been made into a
wool product and used by consumers, then cleanecl, garnetted, and remade into merchandise. It must be labeled reused
wool. See reused fibers.
rubber
The generic name of man-made
fibers in which the
fiber-forming substance is natural or synthetic rubber.
drugget
A coarse, felted floor covering made from mixtures of such fibers as
cotton,
jute, and
wool. Drugget is usually napped on one side and is a traditionally inexpensive floor covering used by institutions.
saran
The generic name for a man-made
fiber derived from vinylidene chloride. Saran is strong, resists common chemicals, sunlight, and weather. It is used primarily in the fabric field for upholstery on public transportation vehicles and for garden furniture.
sateen
A strong, lustrous, mercerized,
satin-weave fabric made of
cotton, blends of
cotton with polyester, or spun-
yarn fabrie characterized by floats running in the filling direction. Sateen Is also used to distinguish between
cotton satin-weave fabrics and
satin-weave fabrics made of sük or
man-made fibers. It is used for linings, draperies, and comforters. See weaving and
satin weave.
satin
One of the basic weaves. A shiny, smooth
silk,
acetate,
rayon, or other man-made
fiber combination woven in
satin weave made with a
cotton filling. It has a smooth, lustrous surface because the
warp floats. It is used for linings of coats, jackets, facings, and ties. It is also used for draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, and sheets. Satin weave has proved so popular that various types of satin-weave fabrics have developed. Following i.s a listing of many of the types of satin fabrics. See weaving and
sateen.
scales
Protective covering of the
wool fiber.
scrim
An open, plain-weave,
mesh fabric used for curtains,
bunting, and as a supporting fabric for some laminated fabrics. Scrim was traditionally made of
cotton, but today usually is made of nylon or other
man-made fibers. See
bunting.
scutching
The separation of the outer covering of the
flax stalk from the usable fibers.
seed yarn
A very small nub often made of dyed
man-made fibers applied to a dyed or natural-base
yarn.
shag
A floor covering with relatively long, loose
wool or man-made fibered plie.
sharkskin
(1) A heavy weight, fairly lustrous
cotton,
linen,
silk, or man-made
fiber fabric with a sleek, hard-fini
shed, crisp, and pebbly surface and a chalky
luster. Today, it is almost always made of
acetate or tri
acetate. Filament yarns, when used, are twisted and woven tightly in a plain-weave or basket-weave construction, depending on the effect desired. Staple
fiber yarns are handled in the same manner, except for
wool. Sharkskin is best known in its stark white color especially popular for tennis outfits and for permanently pleated white skirts when they are in fashion. (2) A
wool fabric in
twill weave, originally made of yarns of two colors.
sheath-core yarn
A bulky
yarn of synthetic fibers consisting of a core of fine
denier fibers with considerable shrinkage and a cover or wrapping of coarse
denier relaxed fibers.
shoddy
Originally, a fabric made from reprocessed wool. Today, the word is used for a fabric - or anything else, for that matter - that is poorly made or made of inferior materials. See
reprocessed fibers and
reused wool.
silk
The product of the silk worm and the only natural
filament fiber (it is produced in a long thread). Silk was the leading luxury
fiber for thousands of years. There were many types of silk and many ways of making it into cloth. foday, man-made
fibers have to a very large extent replaced silk, but the traditional names for certain silk fabrics are still used and include the following:
raw silk
A term used incorrectly for wild
silk. Raw
silk is the
silk fiber before it has been processed in any way. Kaw
silk is coated with a glue-like substance called sericin. The sericin is removed in later processing and is not
silk.
shantung
A
silk similar to
pongee in that it, too, is made with slubbed yarns, but in shantung the unevenness of the yarns is even greater. Shantung is one of the fabrics that originated in
silk and has been imitated extensively in the
man-made fibers.
surah
A
silk recognized by its sheen and its fine
twill weave. Surah is popular for dresses and neckties and is also imitated in
man-made fibers.
tussah
Silk fabric woven from silk made by wild, un
cultivated silkworms. Tussah is naturally tan in color, cannot be bleached, and has a rougher
texture than
cultivated silk. Wild silkworms eat leaves other than mulberry leaves which
cultivated silkworms eat exclusively. The difference in diet accounts for the different
fiber and fabric characteristics. Tussah is also used to describe fabrics designed to imitate this kind of silk. See
wild silk.
silk culture
The care of the worm that produces
silk fiber, from the egg to the moth.
silk noil
Short ends of
silk fibers used in making rough,
textured, spun yarns or in blends with
cotton or
wool.
singeing
Removing surface fibers and lint from a cloth with hot copper plates or gas flames.
single yarn
One strand of fibers or filaments grouped or twisted together. See
singles.
sliver
A filmy
sheet of fibers resulting from carding.
soil release
A special finish applied to some man-made
fiber fabrics in an attempt to overcome one of their disadvantages: the tendency to retain dirt, especially water-borne and/or oil-based stains, once it has penetrated the
fibers. Polyester is one of the
fibers that retains oil-based stains.
solution dyeing
The solution for man-made
fiber is colored before making it into
fiber. Dye
stuff is put into ttre
spinning solution and the color is locked in as the
fiber is coagulated. Synonytnous with spun dycing and dope dyeing. See dyeing,
spun dyeing, and dope dyeing.
spandex
The generic name of man-made
fibers derived from a chemical substance called segmented polyurethane (resin). This man-made elastic
fiber has a good deal of stretch and
recovery for its weight. Spandex is used extensively in foundation garments and is much more comfortable than
rubber because it is lighter in weight. Spandex is also found in some fabrics where stretch is considered desirable, such as in ski clothes. See polyurethane.
specialty fibers
Hair fibers from various breeds of goats and camels. Also included are cow- and
horsehair, fur from rabbits, and feathers of the
duck, goose, and ostrich.
specific gravity
The density of a
fiber relative to that of water at 4° centigrade.
spinneret
A spinneret, which looks very much like a showerhead (a jet or nozzle containing very fine holes), is used in the manufacture of man-made
fibers. The
material from which the
fibers are forrned is forced through holes in the spinneret (extruded) while it is in a syrupy or melted state. The resulting long strands harden into
filament fibers. See
filament and
fiber.
spinning
A method of drawing out and
twisting together fibers to make a continuous
thread or
yarn. Spinning also refers to the manufacture of man-rnade fibers as they are formed by fcucing the
material from which they are rnade through a
spinneret. In conventional spinning, the tighter the
twist, the stronger the
yarn, but too tight a
twist can weaken the final
yarn. Crepe
yarns have such an extremely high
twist that the
yarn actually turns back on itself (kinks), producing the characteristic
crepe or corksc_rew look. Pabrics can be given shadow effects by the Lise of two
yarns which have been
twisted in opposite directions during spinning. This will strike each of these
yarns in a different way producing this effect. See
spinneret.
spinning quality
"The ease with which fibers lend themselves to
yarn-manufacturing processes
spun fiber yarn
(1) A
yarn twisted by
spinning. (2) Yarn made from
staple lengths of man-made
fibers instead of the long fiIaments in which man-made
fibers are formed. To accomplish this, long
filament fibers are chopped into
staple lengths and spun to imitate natural
fiber yarns. See
filament arrd
staple.
spun polyester
See spun
fiber yarn.
spun rayon
See spun
fiber yarn.
spun silk
Yarn or fabric made from short fibers of pierced cocoons or from short ends at the outside and inside edges of the cocoons that cannot be reeled.
staple
Short lengths of
fiber, measured in inches or fractions of inches, like those naturally found in
cotton and
wool. These short lengths must be spun to obtain a length sufficient for weaving or
knitting. Silk is the only natural
fiber that does not come in staple lengths, but instead in
filament lengths. Man-made
fibers often are cut into staple lengths for
spinning to imitate natural
fibers. See
spinning,
filament, and spun
fiber yarn.
stretch fibers
Rubber or man-made plastik
fibers (such as
spandex and anidex) that are naturally elastic or man-rnade
fibers, highly twisted, heat-set, and untwisted to leave a strong crimp. Polyester has a certain degree ol natural streich and more can iue given to the
yarn in the processing or in the
finishing of the fabric. Occasionally, polyester woven fabrics are described as stretch fabrics. Usually, stretch implies a degree of visible give in a
fiber or fabric that stretches and then returns quickly to its original shape. Stretch fabrics are sometirnes described as elastic. Sec elastic, crimp, and
recovery. See also
spandex and anidex.
stretch yarn
A
textured yarn that has good stretch and
recovery. It can also refer to
yarns made of
fibers that have elastic properties or to those
yarns whose elastic properties are obtained by alterations of the basic
fiber.
striations
The many fine microscopic lines extending lengthwise on the viscose
rayon fiber.
substrate
An underlying support or foundation. An example is a
fiber substrate prepared with a
mordant before dyeing.
suede fabric
A woven or knitted fabric of
cotton,
man-made fibers,
wool, or blends, fini
shed to resemble
suede leather. It is used in sport coats, gloves, linings, and cleaning cloths.
sulfur dye
A dye derived from chemicals containing sulphur. It is used mostly for vegetable fibers. It has fair resistance to washing and poor resistance to sunlight.
swint
Perspiration on the
wool fiber.
Swiss
A fine,
sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric of almost any
fiber whose name has been almost forgotten except in the form of dotted (or figured) Swiss. It is used for curtains. See dotted Swiss.
synthetic fiber
A man-made textile
fiber derived from natural bases or produced by chemical synthesis. These chemicals were never fibrous in form.
table linen
Any fabric, regardless of
fiber content, suitable for a table covering.
taffeta
A fine,
yarn-dyed, closely woven, plain-weave, smooth on both sides, stiffened fabric with a crisp feel and a sheen on its surface. Taffeta was originally made of
silk, but is also made of
rayon,
cotton,
acetate, or other
man-made fibers. lt is named for the Persian fabric "taftan". The
rustle of
silk taffeta is called
scroop, and it may be a solid color, printed or woven so that the colors appear
iridescent. A list of the most common types of taffeta follows. lt is used for dresses, blouses, ribbons, draperies, bedspreads, and curtains. See
scroop.
tapestry
A Jaquard woven fabric in
cotton,
wool, or
man-made fibers. Traditionally, a decorative wall hanging woven to depict a scene. The filling threads are changed in color to fit the design. On the back, shaded stripes identify this fabric. It is used extensively for wall hangings, table covers, draperies, and upholstery. Some rugs are made in tapestry weaves. The word is also used for needlepoint, but this use is generally considered incorrect. Ma
chine-made fabrics, also called tapestry, have regular designs on the surface and a slightly looped pile. They are used for such things as coats and handbags.
tenaeity
The
tensile strength of a
fiber, expressed as force per unit of linear density of an unstrained specimen. lt is usually expressed in grams per
denier or grams per
tex. See
tex.
tensile strength
The maximum tensile stress required to rupture a
fiber, expressed as pounds per square inch or grams per square centimeter.
thermoplastic
A word used to describe
fibers that are heat-sensitive. Most man-made
fibers are thermoplastic. A thermoplastic
fiber has the property of softening or fusing when heated and of harderring agaln when cooled. With the application of heat and pressure, it can be molded and remolded. This can be both an udvarrtaKe and a disadvantage. lt is advantageous because in fabrics made of thermoplastic
fibers, certain features like pleats can be made permanent through heat-setting. However, care must be taken in drying und ironiog fabrics made of thermoplastic
fibers because of their sensitivity to heat. See man-made
fibers and heat-setting.
thermosetting
A process for giving
thermoplastic fibers or fabrics certain characteristics, such as erirnp or permanent pleats through the applicativm of heat. Thermosetting is also used to develop certain finishes in a fabric to produce desirable characteristics such as durable press. See
heat setting,
thermoplastic, and durable press.
thick and thin yarn
Produced by varying the diameters of
man-made fibers.
cotton-wrapped polyester (core) thread
A type of polyester
thread made with a polyester core wrapped with
cotton, theoretically giving the
thread characteristics of both fibers.
nylon thread
The
thread introduced as an alternative to
silk thread that has more give than most natural
fiber threads. lt is used extensively for sewing man-made
fiber fabrics, especially knits.
polyester thread
Thread made of 100% polyester. Polyester
thread has more give than most natural
fiber threads and is used extensively for sewing man-made
fiber fabrics, especially knits. lt can be used on almost any fabric. Polyester
thread is strong, but tends to knot easily.
silk thread
A classic sewing
thread for fine work and for sewing
silks and woolens. lt has more give than other natural
fiber threads, but less than polyester or nylon. lt is used primarily for sewing on
silk fabrics.
tow
Short
flax fibers, separated by
hackling (combing) from the longer fibers. Also, the poorly hackled, uneven
linen yarn made from these short fibers. lt may also refer to a continuous loose rope of man made filaments drawn together without
twist to be cut in lengths for spun
yarn.
tow linen
Fabric made of uneven, irregular yarns composed of the every short fibers.
terry cloth
A
cotton or
cotton and man-made
fiber fabric with a looped pile on one or both sides. lt is made into towels for drying after a bath. It may also be used for dish towels.
trapunto
A form of
quilting in which fabric is quilted only in certain areas. The design to be quilted, a
monogram for example, is first worked through two layers of fabric. Then, the back ing fabric is slit so that the yuilted areas can be padded with
yarn,
cord, or a filling such as fiberfill. See fiberfill.
triacetate
A
thermoplastic fiber classified under the generic name of
acetate, although it is a modification of
acetate. Tri
acetate fabrics resist shrinkage, wrinkles, and fading. They do not dissolve in acetone, can be wa
shed at higher temperatures than those made of
acetate, and can be ironed with the heat set for
linen. See
acetate.
trilobal
A
fiber with a modified cross section having three lobes.
ribbon
A narrow, woven fabric with two fini
shed edges. Both natural and
man-made fibers are used in making ribbon. lt is available in many patterns and colors and in such fabric constructions as
velvet,
satin, and gros
grain. See
velvet,
satin, and gros
grain.
tussah silk
Silk fabric woven from silk made by wild, un
cultivated silkworms. Tussah is strong, but coarse and uneven. lt is naturally tau in color, cannot be bleached, and has a rougher
texture than
cultivated silk. lt is used in
shantung and
pongee. Wild silkworms eat leaves other than mulberry leaves eaten exclusively by silkworms. The difference in diet accounts for the different
fiber and fabric characteristics. Tussah is also used to describe fabrics designed to imitate this kind of silk. See
wild silk.
underlay
A synonym for padding or rug cushion. It usually describes the layer of fabric of sponge
rubber or hair placed underneath a carpet or rug to provide it with longer life, to give it a more luxurious appearance and feeling, to prevent the rug from slipping, and to make the rug softer and more cushiony. Carpet padding is made of cattle hair,
rubberized hair,
rubber, and combinations of
jute and cattle hair, as well as some
man-made fibers. Sec: rugs and carpets, padding, and rug cushion.
union cloth
A traditional name for fabric made from two or more different fibers, such as a fabric woven with a
wool worsted
warp and a
cotton filling. The term "union cloth" was used primarily when this fabric was used for underwear, perhaps because a
union suit was another name for shoulder-to-ankle, one-piece underwear. See
union suit.
union dyeing
Dyeing different fibers in the same cloth in one shade. See dyeing.
vat dyeing
Vat dyeing refers to the type of dye rather than to the way in which the dyeing is done. This process uses an insoluble dye made soluble in its application. lt is put on the
fiber and oxidized to its original insoluble form. Exeellent colorfastness to washing and sunlight.
velvet
Velvet is a fabric with a short and closely woven nap. The production of velvet varies between two methods. One uses a double-cloth construction in which two shifts of fabric are woven with long threads joining them together. After the double fabric is woven, the center threads are cut, producing two pieces of velvet. The second method of producing velvet uses wires. During the weaving the
yarn is lifted over the wires to form the pile. After removing the wires the
yarn is cut to form the velvet surface. While velvet was originally made of
silk, today many other fibers are used to manufacure velvet (e.g.
rayon or nylon).
Lyons velvet
Velvet originally made of
silk in Lyons, France. Lyons is a thick, stiff
velvet with a very short pile. Today, this type of
velvet (often called Lyons-type) is made of
man-made fibers. It is used for home furnishings as well as for evening wear.
vinal
The generic name for a man-made
fiber derived from polyvinal alcohol. Vinal
fibers soften at low temperatures, but resist chemicals. Although vinal is no longer made in the United States, it is made in Japan and is found in tires, some home furnishings, and industrial products.
vinyon
The generic name for a man-made
fiber derived from poly
vinyl chloride, a derivative of natural salt, water, and petroleum. Vinyon
fibers soften at low temperatures and resist chemicals. Vinyon is often referred to as poly
vinyl chloride. Its primary use is in commercial products.
virgin fibers
Fibers never made into fabric before. The term is used primarily for
wool fibers to differentiate between these and reclaimed, repro cessed, and reused fibers. See
reprocessed fibers, reclaimed fibers, and reused fibers.
viscose process
Viscose process describes the production of
rayon fibers from purified
cellulose.
voile
A
sheer, transparent, low-count, crisp or soft, lightweight, plain-weave
muslin with a thready feel, made of highly twisted yarns. lt can be comprised of
wool,
cotton,
silk,
rayon, polyester, or other
man-made fibers. Voile is especially popular when made of
cotton or blends for summer wear and is often printed to match heavier fabrics. Voile is used for clothing, especially for blouses and summer dresses, and for curtains and similar items.
waste silk
Another name for
silk noil. Short ends of
silk fibers used in making rough,
textured, spun yarns or in blends with
cotton or
wool.
webbing
A strong, narrow fabric made from
jute or
man-made fibers. It is used for belts and straps that must resist strain. Webbing is usually woven and is used on the underside of upholstered chairs and sofas.
whipcord
An extremely strong,
twill-weave worsted fabric made in fairly heavy weights of
cotton,
wool worsted, and fabrics of
man-made fibers and blends. It is similar to
gabardine, but heavier and with a more pronounced diagonal
rib on the right side. lt is so named because it simulates tlre lash of a whip. Cotton whipcotds are often four-harness
warp-
twill weaves. lt is used for draperies and upholstery, uniforms, riding clothes, and other wearing apparel where a strong fabric is required. See
twill under entry for weaving.
white-on-white
A fabric in any
fiber mixture or blend that has a white woven-in design on a white background. Usually, it is a fabric with a white
dobby or Jacquard design on a white ground, common in madras,
broadcloth, or nylon. See madras.
wickability
The property of a
fiber that allows moisture to move rapidly along the
fiber surface and pass quickly through the fabric.
wool
The term used for the
fleece of lambs and sheep, but also applies to similar fibers from such animals as the
angora and
cashmere goats, the llama, and other animals used for clothing. lt is un like carpet wool, which is much coarser and unsuitable for clothing. Wool refers to
fleece wool used for the first time in the complete manufacture of a wool product. Wool differs from hair and fur in that it has a natural
felting ability. See
felt,
woolen, and worsted.
woolen yarn
Woolen
yarn is a type of carded
yarn made of relatively short fibers of varying lengths.
yarn
A generic term for a continuous strand spun from a group of natural or synthetic
staple fibers (short lengths of fibers), filaments (long lengths), or other materials twisted or laid together for use in weaving,
knitting, or some other method of intertwining to form textile fabrics.
zein
Cornmeal from which protein is derived for synthetic fibers.
zephyr yarn
A fine, soft
yarn with a low
twist popular for hand
knitting. Originally made from
wool, zephyr is usually made of
acrylic and often has other fibers such as
silk added to it.
zibeline
A heavily napped coating fabric with the long sleek nap bru
shed, steamed, and pressed in one direction, thus hiding the underlying
satin weave. Zibe
line is usually made of a combi nation of such
fibers as camel hair or mohair with
wool,
cotton, or a man-made
fiber as the largest percentage,
